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HOME GROW
Mushroom Fruiting Blocks
Many of our mushroom strains are available as fruiting blocks. These ready to grow cultures are living in a fortified wood substrate. Once the mycelium has completely suffused the substrate, simply slice open the bag & watch the mushrooms grow. Pick as they mature. Choose a culture from our Strain List or browse the fruiting blocks store below.
Block Instructions
Instuctions for using our 'home-grow fruiting blocks'.
By Meteor Mushrooms.
Some basic mycological terminology:
Mycelium
The weblike structure of the fungus. The mycelium is the main body of the fungus. It grows through the substrate, and the mushroom is the 'fruit' that grows out of the mycelium.
Myceliated
Colonized by mushroom mycelium.
Substrate
The medium or base material that the mycelium colonizes. Our oyster mushrooms and lions mane blocks are made from fortified hardwood.
Primordia
The initial growth out of the mycelium, forming pinheads.
Pin/Pinhead
The intermediate phase of growth as the primordia form skinny hairs that will then turn into the mushrooms.
Micropore Vent
The semi-permeable vent in the bag which allows air exchange, but keeps out particles, bacteria and fungal/mold spores.
Flush
The fruiting stage of mycelium, when the mushrooms grow.
For best results & maximum harvests, read carefully before opening the bag.
The Meteor Mushrooms 'Home-Grow Fruiting Blocks' will arrive partially to fully myceliated.
The block should rest right-side up for a few days to recover from the journey.
While myceliation is progressing, the block does not require light, so can be kept in a cupboard or closet or box, but with enough airflow to prevent suffocation.
The bags are made from biodegradable plastic, are pasteurized, inoculated with the chosen mushroom strain and then heat sealed. The micropore patch should be the only airflow in or out of the bag.
Handle with care. Lift it gently by the block, not by the top of the bag. The mycelial mass is an organism. Breaking it apart at this stage will hinder fruiting. Lifting the block by the bag can tear open the heat seal. Plan your opening carefully, to maximize yield and minimize drying out and/or contamination.
The block should be solid to the touch and have white strands (mycelium), throughout the substrate. Each strain has a different colour and look to the mycelium.
If there are patches of un-myceliated substrate within the block, it is best to wait until the mycelium fully colonizes the substrate, before opening the bag. The myceliation stage does not require light or humidity control, and can be accomplished at room temperature. Slightly warmer conditions will expedite the colonization.
Once optimal myceliation is achieved, it is time to fruit the block.
Grow Environment
DO NOT OPEN THE BAG
until the substrate is fully myceliated, the growing environment is prepared, and the operation is planned.
Read the appropriate instructions (below) for the variety of mushroom you are growing. The variables that must be considered for optimal fruiting include airflow, humidity, light exposure, and temperature.
The requirements of mycelium are similar to the requirements of humans.
Airflow - Fungus breathes. Mycelium requires oxygen and dispels carbon dioxide, just like you do. The environment of the fruiting block must therefore have access to air, or the mycelium begins to suffocate and will abort fruiting. A counter-top has lots of air, a cupboard has less airflow, and a sealed container has none.
Humidity - Mycelium requires water. There is sufficient water in the substrate in the sealed bag, for the first fruiting. The air-humidity level will directly affect how the fruiting transpires. Once the bag is opened, the water will begin to evaporate, and the mushrooms will begin sucking out the moisture as they grow,causing the blocks to dry out.
The perfect conditions for fruiting are achieved at a high air humidity. 80-90%.
We recommend using a humidity tent, or domed propagation unit.
TENTS
You can make your own tent by cutting holes in a clear (not coloured) plastic bag and placing loosely over the block with the opening at the bottom. There needs to be a route for the heavier CO2 to escape, or the mycelium will suffocate.
GROW DOMES
These are plastic trays with domed clear plastic lids, designed for sprouting plants. They are a great containment apparatus, however, they require some adjustments to work for mushroom growing. There needs to be CO2 vents at the very bottom of the sides of the tray. Carbon dioxide is heavier than air, and must have a route to flow out of. 4-6 one-inch holes drilled into the bottom edge of the sides is recommended. This allows a steady flow of dispelled CO2 to escape which draws in fresh air through the top vents. The vents should always be open.
Spritzing the inside of the tent or dome with sterilized or distilled water twice daily can elevate the humidity to optimal fruiting levels. Do not spray the grow block directly. The exposed window should not get water poured or sprayed on it. This can introduce mould or bacterial to the substrate, which is the competitor and enemy of the mycelium.
Light - Mushrooms react to light. Different mushrooms have different light requirements. Many will not fruit at all until exposed to light. The block should be in an environment that has daytime length, indirect light, but not full sun.
Temperature - The optimal temperature for fruiting is different for each variety, but all our strains will grow in the range of 16 - 22 degrees Celsius (60F-72F). The lower end of the temperature range is more likely to trigger fruiting than the higher temperatures.
Clean & disinfect the grow environment, the tools and the outside of the bag at every stage. Keep your hands clean. Wear a mask and avoid breathing on the block or any of the tools or components. Once you have found or created your growing environment, prepare the block for fruiting.
The contents of the bag were sterilized before inoculation and sealing. The environment is solely owned by the mycelium until the bag is cut. Minimizing exposure to mould and bacteria is paramount in maximizing mushroom yield and ensuring second and third flushes of mushrooms.
PLEASE NOTE: if there is any sign of mould or bacterial growth on the mycelium or substrate or on the inside of the bag, DO NOT OPEN THE BAG. Contact us to arrange a replacement block. If you are unsure, take good photos and send to jake.meteormushrooms@gmail.com for confirmation.Once the bag is opened, you have accepted the responsibility for the block and Meteor Mushrooms is not in any way liable or responsible for the growth and life expectancy of the mushrooms or the mycelium. Follow the specific variety instructions for the strain you are growing:
Oyster Instructions
Instuctions for using our OYSTER Mushroom Fruiting Blocks.
These are the recommended instructions for using Meteor Mushrooms Home-Grow Mushroom Fruiting Blocks, for several of our strains of Oyster mushrooms, including:
Blue Oyster, Pearl Oyster, BC Brown Oyster, & Elm Oyster.
The ideal temperature for fruiting these strains is between 15C (60F) & 18C (65F).
Follow these instructions also for Pink Oyster & Golden Oyster, but be aware that they prefer a slightly higher temperature for fruiting, between 17C (63F) & 21C (70F).
For King Trumpet a.k.a. King Oyster Mushrooms, see these instructions.
To watch a video on opening an oyster mushroom block, follow this YOUTUBE link:
https://youtu.be/r8Eq3ixR1qo
Clean the outside of the bag with isopropyl alcohol or similar disinfecting agent.
Using a sterilized blade (utility knife, razor, box cutter or scissors), make a small incision in the top of the bag and press out the air, then fold the remaining flap of plastic down to eliminate the gap that existed in the top portion of the bag. Use packing tape to hold down the loose top portion of the bag, and wrap the packing tape around the block to hold it tight. You should now have a rectangular block with no air gap in the bag.
The micropore patch has done its job and is no longer relevant.
Decide where you want the mushrooms to grow out of. These mushrooms generally prefer to grow out the sides, not the top. Choose well myceliated spots near the top of the block, and slice open a rectangle in the plastic. Avoid cutting into the myceliated substrate. The cuts should make a window between 4 and 10 cm wide and high. The larger the window, the more moisture the block will lose, shortening the length of time the mushrooms will grow. You can do one window at a time or two or even three if you prefer, but less openings is more likely to grow larger mushrooms.
The next stage is the 1st flush. It begins with the development of primordia stimulated by exposure to fresh air, light, & humidity in the window(s) you created. The little pins will push out of the substrate over the next few days. The pinheads will become mushrooms as they mature.
If your block is in a moist but ventilated space, you need do very little. If not, you may need to give it daily attention like misting the environment to raise humidity or opening a nearby window or using a fan to provide fresh air. Check on the blocks daily. The fruiting can be incredibly fast and it is really interesting to watch the progression. If growth stalls, one of the variables may need an adjustment; likely more air and/or moisture.
Revisit the environment preparation instructions above to analyze the possible reasons why growth might stall.
Pick all the mushrooms in a cluster once when they are mature. Pull the entire clump off as one, then trim the substrate off the mushrooms. Enjoy!
Avoid allowing the mushrooms to over-mature.
Once fully mature the mushrooms will release their spores into the surrounding environment and, job completed, begin to deteriorate. Spores can make a potential mess or even be a hindrance to your cardio-health if exposure is sustained over time.
To initiate a second flush.
Use the window to add some sterilized or distilled water (approx. 1/4cup) to the block/bag to begin the second flush. Clean around the window with isopropyl alcohol or similar disinfecting agent, remove any mushroom debris left behind. This is a vulnerable moment for the mycelium. Be very careful not to introduce contaminants to the block when adding the water.
This window is now used up. The 'wound' left behind is very likely to get contaminated if not resealed. Use packing tape to close the window, wrapping it all the way around to seal it tight.
Start the entire process from the beginning with a new window to initiate a second flush, and again for a third flush. Progressive flushes will not likely be as 'fruitful' as the 1st, but can still be productive.
If bacteria or mould is beginning to form, the block should be discarded. When no more mushrooms are growing, the block has run out of water or nutrients, or has lost viability. Water can be replaced, but eventually the mycelium will use up all the fuel of the substrate and the block becomes a bag of mushroom compost.
The myceliated substrate can be composted or spread directly over garden soil or lawn. Try covering the discarded substrate with straw or wood chips in a shady spot in the garden and keep it moist. Sometimes the mycelium will 'take' and grow some bonus mushrooms in the garden.
King Trumpet Instructions
Instuctions for using our KING TRUMPET Mushroom Fruiting Blocks.
King Trumpet, a.k.a. King Oyster mushrooms, have the potential to grow very large. They do not all grow large, and sometimes grow in clumps of many mushrooms instead of one or two big ones. There is no way to control this. The mushrooms will decide.
The best way to grow King Trumpet Mushrooms, is to not open the bag at all until small clusters of mushrooms begin growing on the top of the substrate, inside the bag.
Prepare the growing environment.
Once there are lots of mushrooms growing, clean the outside of the bag with isopropyl alcohol or similar disinfecting agent.
Using a sterilized blade (utility knife, razor, box cutter or scissors), cut the whole top of the bag off, just above the top of the substrate.
If your block is in a moist but ventilated space, you need do very little. If not, you may need to give it daily attention like a misting the environment to raise humidity or opening a nearby window to give it fresh air. Check on the blocks daily. The fruiting can be incredibly fast and it is really interesting to watch the progression. If growth stalls, one of the variables may need an adjustment; likely more air and/or moisture.
Revisit the environment preparation instructions above to analyze the possible reasons why growth might stall.
Cut off mushrooms at the base as they reach maturity, leaving as little of the mushroom behind as possible. Be careful not to break the substrate or lift off the mycelium coating the substrate.
Leave immature mushrooms intact to allow them to grow.
Enjoy them as you pick them.
Avoid allowing the mushrooms to over-mature.
Once fully mature the mushrooms will release their spores into the surrounding environment and, job completed, begin to deteriorate. Spores can make a potential mess or even be a hindrance to your cardio-health if exposure is sustained over time.
Kings will rarely give a second flush.
Feel free to try.
The myceliated substrate can be composted or spread directly over garden soil or lawn. Try covering the discarded substrate with straw or wood chips in a shady spot in the garden and keep it moist. Sometimes the mycelium will 'take' and grow some bonus mushrooms in the garden.
Lions Mane Instructions
Instuctions for using our LIONS MANE Mushroom Fruiting Blocks.
Clean the outside of the bag with isopropyl alcohol or similar disinfecting agent.
Using a sterilized blade (utility knife, razor, box cutter or scissors), make a small incision in the top of the bag and press out the air, then fold the remaining flap of plastic down to eliminate the gap that existed in the top portion of the bag. The micropore patch has done its job and is no longer relevant. Tape the flap of plastic down.
Decide where you want the mushrooms to grow out of. These mushrooms generally prefer to grow out the sides, not the top. Choose well myceliated spots near the top of the block, and slice open a rectangle in the plastic, without cutting excessively into the myceliated substrate. The cuts should make a window between 3 and 10 cm wide and high. The larger the window, the more moisture the block will lose, shortening the length of time the mushrooms will grow. You can do one window at a time or two or even three if you prefer, but less openings is more likely to grow larger mushrooms.
The next stage is the 1st flush. It begins with the development of primordia stimulated by exposure to air and light in the window(s) you created. The little pins will push out of the substrate over the next few days. The pinheads will form a mat and subsequently a lions mane mushroom.
If your block is in a moist but ventilated space, you need do very little. If not, you may need to give it daily attention like a misting the environment to raise humidity or opening a nearby window to give it fresh air. Check on the blocks daily. The fruiting can be incredibly fast and it is really interesting to watch the progression. If growth stalls, one of the variables may need an adjustment; likely more air and/or moisture.
Revisit the environment preparation instructions above to analyze the possible reasons why growth might stall.
Pick each mushroom as they mature. Pull the entire clump off as one. Lions mane will grow icicle like tendrils if kept in a pleasing environment. This is the last stage of their maturity. If they begin to turn yellow, they are likely not going to grow anymore.
Pick & Enjoy!
Avoid allowing the mushrooms to over-mature.
Once fully mature the mushrooms will release their spores into the surrounding environment and, job completed, begin to deteriorate. Spores can make a potential mess or even be a hindrance to your cardio-health if exposure is sustained over time.
Use the window to add some sterilized or distilled water to the block/bag to begin the second flush. This window is now used up. The 'wound' left behind is very likely to get contaminated if not resealed. Clean around the window with isopropyl alcohol or similar disinfecting agent, remove any mushroom debris left behind. Use packing tape to close the window.
Start the entire process from the beginning to initiate a second flush, and again for a third flush. Progressive flushes will not likely be as 'fruitful' as the 1st, but can still be productive.
If bacteria or mould is beginning to form, the block should be discarded. When no more mushrooms are growing, the block has run out of water or nutrients, or has lost viability. Water can be replaced, but eventually the mycelium will use up all the fuel of the substrate and the block becomes a bag of mushroom compost.
The myceliated substrate can be composted or spread directly over garden soil or lawn. Try covering the discarded substrate with straw or wood chips in a shady spot in the garden and keep it moist. Sometimes the mycelium will 'take' and grow some bonus mushrooms in the garden.
Reishi Instructions
Instuctions for using our REISHI Mushroom Fruiting Blocks.
The best way to grow Reishi Mushrooms, is to not open the bag at all until the 'antlers' begin growing on the top of the substrate, inside the bag.
Allow these protrusions to grow almost to the top of the bag.
Only then do you consider opening the bag.
Prepare the growing environment.
Once the antlers are well formed, clean the outside of the bag with isopropyl alcohol or similar disinfecting agent.
Using a sterilized blade (utility knife, razor, box cutter or scissors), cut the whole top of the bag off, just above the top of the substrate.
If your block is in a moist but ventilated space, you need do very little. If not, you may need to give it daily attention like a misting the environment to raise humidity or opening a nearby window to give it fresh air. Check on the blocks daily. The reishi disks will now grow out of the top of the antlers. They are not a fast growing mushroom and can take several weeks to fully mature. If growth stalls, one of the variables may need an adjustment; likely more air and/or moisture.
Revisit the environment preparation instructions above to analyze the possible reasons why growth might stall.
Wait for all the mushrooms to grow a kidney shaped disk. They should have visible rings with several colours and shades.
To harvest, break the antlers off at the base, then trim the remaining substrate off.
Avoid allowing the mushrooms to over-mature.
Once fully mature the mushrooms will release their spores into the surrounding environment and, job completed, begin to deteriorate. Spores can make a potential mess or even be a hindrance to your cardio-health if exposure is sustained over time.
Reishi will rarely give a second flush.
Feel free to try.
The myceliated substrate can be composted or spread directly over garden soil or lawn. Try covering the discarded substrate with straw or wood chips in a shady spot in the garden and keep it moist. Sometimes the mycelium will 'take' and grow some bonus mushrooms in the garden.
Instuctions for using our SHIITAKE Mushroom Fruiting Blocks.
The best way to grow Shiitake Mushrooms, is to not open the bag at all until small mushrooms begin growing on the substrate, inside the bag.
Prepare the growing environment.
Once there are several mushrooms growing inside the bag, clean the outside of the bag with isopropyl alcohol or similar disinfecting agent.
Using a sterilized blade (utility knife, razor, box cutter or scissors), cut most of the bag away, leaving only the bottom 2-3 inches as a containment tray. The solidly myceliated block should now be mostly exposed. Shiitake mushrooms will grow out from all over the block in sporadic places, and will continue to grow in new places as they are harvested.
If your block is in a moist but ventilated space, you need do very little. If not, you may need to give it daily attention like misting the environment to raise humidity or opening a nearby window or using a fan to provide fresh air. Check on the blocks daily. The fruiting can be incredibly fast and it is really interesting to watch the progression. If growth stalls, one of the variables may need an adjustment; likely more air and/or moisture.
Revisit the environment preparation instructions above to analyze the possible reasons why growth might stall.
Cut off mushrooms at the base as they reach maturity, leaving as little of the mushroom behind as possible. Be careful not to break the substrate or lift off the mycelium coating the substrate.
Leave immature mushrooms intact to allow them to grow.
Enjoy them as you pick them.
Avoid allowing the mushrooms to over-mature.
Once fully mature the mushrooms will release their spores into the surrounding environment and, job completed, begin to deteriorate. Spores can make a potential mess or even be a hindrance to your cardio-health if exposure is sustained over time.
Shiitake are a continuous grower, as opposed to growing in several distinct flushes.
Because the block is so exposed to air, it is susceptible to drying out. Be sure to keep humidity levels as high as possible throughout the fruiting process. The block will still eventually dry up, so spritzing it with distilled or sterilized water may be necessary to extend the length of the growing period. Do not spray directly onto mushrooms, only the substrate.
If mushrooms stop growing, and there is no visible mould or other contaminants, try a thorough re-hydrating with distilled or sterilized water. This may trigger a new growing period.
If mould begins to form the substrate is no longer a viable growing block.
The myceliated substrate can be composted or spread directly over garden soil or lawn. Try covering the discarded substrate with straw or wood chips in a shady spot in the garden and keep it moist. Sometimes the mycelium will 'take' and grow some bonus mushrooms in the garden.
Shiitake Instructions
Chestnut Instructions
Instuctions for using our CHESTNUT Mushroom Fruiting Blocks.
Clean the outside of the bag with isopropyl alcohol or similar disinfecting agent.
Using a sterilized blade (utility knife, razor, box cutter or scissors), make a small incision in the top of the bag and press out the air, then fold the remaining flap of plastic down to eliminate the gap that existed in the top portion of the bag. Use packing tape to hold down the loose top portion of the bag, and wrap the packing tape around the block to hold it tight. You should now have a rectangular block with no air gap in the bag. The micropore patch has done its job and is no longer relevant.
Decide where you want the mushrooms to grow out of. These mushrooms generally prefer to grow out the sides, not the top. Choose well myceliated spots near the top of the block, and slice open a rectangle in the plastic, without cutting excessively into the myceliated substrate. The cuts should make a window between 3 and 10 cm wide and high. The larger the window, the more moisture the block will lose, shortening the length of time the mushrooms will grow. You can do one window at a time or two or even three if you prefer, but less openings is more likely to grow larger mushrooms.
The next stage is the 1st flush. It begins with the development of primordia stimulated by exposure to fresh air, humidity, and light in the window(s) you created. The little pins will push out of the substrate over the next few days. Many of the pinheads will grow into mushrooms.
If your block is in a moist but ventilated space, you need do very little. If not, you may need to give it daily attention like a misting the environment to raise humidity or opening a nearby window to give it fresh air. Check on the blocks daily. The fruiting can be incredibly fast and it is really interesting to watch the progression. If growth stalls, one of the variables may need an adjustment; likely more air and/or moisture.
Revisit the environment preparation instructions above to analyze the possible reasons why growth might stall.
Chestnut Mushrooms grow in clusters. Once the majority of the mushrooms in the cluster are fully mature, harvest the entire cluster. Gently pull the whole cluster off of the substrate.
Avoid allowing the mushrooms to over-mature.
Once fully mature the mushrooms will release their spores into the surrounding environment and, job completed, begin to deteriorate. Spores can make a potential mess or even be a hindrance to your cardio-health if exposure is sustained over time.
Use the window to add some sterilized or distilled water to the block/bag to begin the second flush. This window is now used up. The 'wound' left behind is very likely to get contaminated if not resealed. Clean around the window with isopropyl alcohol or similar disinfecting agent, remove any mushroom debris left behind. Use packing tape to close the window.
Start the entire process from the beginning to initiate a second flush, and again for a third flush. Progressive flushes will not likely be as 'fruitful' as the 1st, but can still be productive.
If bacteria or mould is beginning to form, the block should be discarded. When no more mushrooms are growing, the block has run out of water or nutrients, or has lost viability. Water can be replaced, but eventually the mycelium will use up all the fuel of the substrate and the block becomes a bag of mushroom compost.
The myceliated substrate can be composted or spread directly over garden soil or lawn. Try covering the discarded substrate with straw or wood chips in a shady spot in the garden and keep it moist. Sometimes the mycelium will 'take' and grow some bonus mushrooms in the garden.
Growing delicious, nutritious, & medicinal mushrooms at home is a great way to maintain a consistent supply of fresh healthy food.
Mushrooms are increasingly being touted as a healthful ingredient,
a substitute for animal products, & as beneficial dietary supplements.
Meteor Mushrooms wants to help you grow these
splendid specimens of healthful wonder, in your own home.
Browse our shops for the latest selection of Mushroom Fruiting Blocks, Liquid Inoculants, Cultured Agar Plates, Grain Spawns,
& the tools & equipment to help you succeed.
Happy growing,
Adam Rosewarne adam@meteormushrooms.com
&
Jake Middleditch jake.meteormushrooms@gmail.com
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